Mykonos (well Tinos), Kea, Athens, Corinth - bit of a catch up really..

Mykonos was a very long sail. We knew it would be about 12 hours so we left before the sun was up. Upon arriving in Mykonos we went to the marina, not expected it to be busy mid-week and pre-season but we were turned away. We then determined our best bet would be to sail on to the next island, Tinos. From Tinos we could still visit Mykonos and it was only another 1.5 hours sail.

Although tired, we made way to Tinos and ended up on the eastern side of the harbor in a fairly uncomfortable spot. Wash from ferries goes in the harbor and we were against the wall. The concrete wall was covered in old tires which seemed nearly as hard as concrete. They made some very dark rings on the side of the boat which we knew were going to take some work to wash off. Nevertheless, we put lines ashore and settled in to eat and sleep.

While on facebook we shared some comments within a Med sailing group and met some people at the next restaurant who had been to Mykonos by ferry. They provided some great advice and we followed their lead the next day, taking the ferry and seeing scenic Mykonos for a few hours.

Mykonos is extraordinarily pretty, quite expensive, and has many, many tourist shops. We walked the town taking in the sights. A highlight was the bakery which has been there for several hundred years. The bread apparently is triple baked and the crust is made to absorb salt water so that the bread alone becomes a meal. It was certainly robust bread!

In Tinos we moved to a more convenient location that had power (but no water) and we stayed there comfortably for a few days. The town was very pretty, relaxed, and luckily we had a great supermarket nearby. We left on the Saturday morning to make our way to Kea, a few hours sail from Athens.

Kea was a great spot right on a quay with many taverns. There was a beach a few hundred meters away and we all cooled off with a relaxing swim. There was still no fresh water (potable) so we rationed what we had knowing we’d be in Athens soon.

Kea filled up with boats very quickly and we learned that as the night progressed, we were parked in the party district. The booming from the dance music beats went until around 3am. Tired and groggy we departed round 9am to make our way to Athens.

An interesting point about berthing in the Med. You typically berth “stern-to” which means you back in to the parking spot. The anchor is dropped a few 10s of meters in front of the boat and holds the front and you tie to the quay with lines at the back. As we were going into Kea, the harbor master said we needed to leave plenty of anchor line due to get the best holding further out so we had nearly 50 meters of rode (anchor chain) out. In the morning a boat appeared to be over top of our anchor. We waited and watched and figured that if the boat moved with the wind, we could likely get out. We then saw that the captain was on deck so with favourable boat position, captain’s awareness, and the right wind, we started to move. Sure enough the boat was almost on top of our anchor. We got within a few meters before we were free from the bottom. All was well but a bit tense as we were making sure we could leave without incident.

Sailing onwards to Athens the next morning was forecast to be uneventful. We got an unexpected beam wind (the best) and got out sails, turned off motor and were making great progress at 7 knots and more. We thought it was great until the wind kept growing and gusts kept getting stronger. We shortened sail to cope (and keep the boat from being overpowered) but eventually it was too much and we had some awkward times getting the sails in. Since we are relatively new to sailing and were heading for a channel between islands we wanted more predictable control so we returned to motor.

The forecast showed winds decreasing as we approached Athens however this was again eronous. We had much more wind than expected so we put out a scap of sail largely to stabilize the boat a bit and kept going under motor. It was a rough ride but mostly uneventful. Our crew felt a bit seasick but overall we made out fine.

Approaching Athens from the sea you really get a sense of a sprawling city. The buildings are largely low rise and roll over the hills on the approach. It can be a bit difficult to spot the marinas but we had a pilot guide which roughly described the approach and skyline. That combined with GPS on the plotter made it pretty routine. I really can’t imagine sailing without technology support. We’ve done all the courses and have paper maps. We practice at spotting things on shore just to supplement the tech but it would be difficult to have only paper.

Athens Marina was a welcome sight. We had to wait to dock while a super-yacht was berthing but were soon moored in and off to a very welcome shower – just in time before the thunderstorms began.

Athens

We wanted to be in Athens to ensure Margaret could make her flight to Canada. I need to digress about airlines. We bought return tickets when we went to Cyprus because it is cheaper than one way. We figured we just wouldn’t use the return part and change fees are so high that it was best to let them lapse and not use them (this is why airlines overbook because people like us have a better economic incentive not to show up).

There was one ticket of four that we could use and that was Margaret’s. However to use it she had to go to Cyprus to catch the flight, even though it stops in Athens on the return. So Margaret flew to Cyprus from Athens, a few hours later caught a flight from Cyprus back to Athens and then a few hours later a flight to Toronto. A flight from Athens to Cyprus was much, much cheaper than paying a change fee. I have to know, how it is possible that changing a booking costs less than just booking then taking a whole new flight?! Change fees are out of hand.

Ok there’s the rant. Now on to Athens.

We stayed at the Athens Marina for convenient access to transit, diesel, showers, and shelter from the winds. All those were available. The Marina had not much else to offer however. That said, Athens is a pretty cool city to visit.

Athens transit makes it easy to get around. If you’ve used Toronto transit, it is a bit similar – overcrowded and noisy but generally effective.

Margaret and Theo were both a bit under the weather – Theo with a cold and Margaret getting over being sea sick so Monday was a very low energy day. We went into Athens proper for a nice lunch and some light shopping in the flea market district. Margaret found an awesome leather jacket.

Before Margaret’s flight on Tuesday we went to the Parthenon. The kids missed this the last time because they wanted to swim at the hotel pool rather than site see. We braved the long ticket lines (40 min) to enter the site and walk to the top. I’m always blown away by the magnitude and magnificence of the build. The history of the build and destruction cycle is incredible.

To really understand the Parthenon one must visit the museum of the Acropolis nearby. You can see the history as well as original carvings from the structure that have been recovered. We went on Wednesday to see the museum after we bought some boat parts. I think I’m one of the few people who have walked through the museum carrying a boat fender. 

We wanted to be in Athens while Margaret was in transit in case any issues surfaced. We stayed an extra day because Theo took a while to get over his cold. We used the time to thoroughly clean the boat in and out. Salt water really takes its toll on everything and we scrubbed a layer or two off to reveal a pretty nice boat underneath. Inside we did a very thorough cleaning of the heads (washrooms) and finally did a few buckets of laundry (literally soap and water in a bucket). These are the parts of cruising life that you will not find in the magazines. You can get laundry service in Athens Marina but it was 3Euro a kilo. Weigh your laundry sometime and see how much it would cost! I often wonder, but not for long, what the superyachts make of us sailors hanging our laundry on the boat lines.

At Athens Marina they have a helipad and we probably saw a half dozen delivery and pickups. We were told the one evening that pictures in the Marina were not allowed. We never did find out who the glitteratzi was that was picture shy.

Finally, we new it was time to move on. We set our sights on the Corinth Canal and set sail.

Corinth

We set off to the Corinth Canal which is a 6km stretch

of dredged canal that cuts through the bottom third of Greece and ensuring you can go through rather than around. A lot of sailing time is cut down.

It cost us around 235 Euro to pass through making the canal the most expensive per km in the world! It is a landmark place. First envisioned a couple thousand years ago when Corinths were dragging triremes over land, it actually didn’t get completed until the late 1800s. Repairs had to be made after WWII to make it serviceable. Now the canal is shut down to traffic every Tuesdayto repair the sides and dredge. At about 7 meters depth, it must get a lot of debris and silt going in.

Passing through was a special experience. In some places a wall has been constructed and other places, it is stone. There are 3 bridges overhead as you go through and tourists are looking down at the boats passing through. Birds nest in holes in the cliff. It is a narrow passage at 25 meters and we went through at around 5 knots as part of a parade of boats. The canal only permits traffic in one direction so you must wait your turn. We waited just over 3 hours for our passage through.

As a result of the wait we decided to stay in Corinth overnight which was not our plan. The habour there is OK but there is no power, no water, and it is at risk of swell. We were well stocked with water, have a generator, and the weather was forecast calm so we stayed and we were pleased we did.

Corinth has so much history to offer. As the birthplace of Tiremes (oared ships) it was a huge commercial enterprise and due to capability on water, an expanding society. They had trade across several islands all the way to Corfu and into the Agean as well. Ancient Corinth has been excavated since the 1930s and had one of the most fabulous ruins both Greek (temple of Apollo) and Roman. The magnitude of the site is awe inspiring. You can feel the city streets and shops around you as you wander down the main boulevard. Visiting these places I’m reminded that economics, entrepreneurship and ego have driven mankind for as long as we can trace recorded history.

Another contribution of the area is the Corinthian column. We saw samples of several

columns and took a picture of Theo beside a Doric column (Theodoric, get it?).

Protestants will know Corinth from the New Testament (first and second Cornithians) and the letters from St Paul. St Paul had a big influence in the area and many people visit the area to experience some of his footsteps.

We explored the museum and site for 1.5 hours (we had arranged a ride) and then went to the top of the mountain where a fortification with 2km of walls was built. We arrived to late to enter but it was impressive from the outside.

Corinth is a bit run down in places and more people approached us for money/support than in other places. One innovative woman struck up a robust friendly conversation before asking for support due to “economic issues.”

Corinth is not a touristy place and everything was closed on Sunday. We had phone problems so we decided to stay until Monday morning, fix the phone issue and then head out. On then to Itea so we can visit the Oracle at Delphi.

Kevin

Leros and Patmos

Leros

We enjoyed Leros. We wanted to check the Marina as it is one of the places we are considering wintering the boat. There are many potential spots so don’t read too much into that statement. Leros marina is about a 15 minute walk to the nearby town.

War made a big impact here. The island has a huge natural harbor and that was a big draw for all countries. Italians were here, once they linked to Germany in WWII, it wasn’t long until the british came to try and retake the island. It was a bitter battle and the scars are still visible on many buildings.

We did see a fascinating war museum built into a “warehouse”. Essentially warehouse tunnels were carved into the mountains. There were many artefacts on display including helmets from the various countries, guns, munitions, and even some vehicles and a plane. The soundtrack played in the tunnel was very emotionally intense as orders were screamed during a battle and overshadowed the exhibits.

As a result of the Italian influence, there are a lot of art-deco buildings in the downtown. We decided to take in a

movie and we were the only occupants besides the projectionist in a classic deco one screen theatre with a balcony.

The marina was a bit different because there were more “live aboards” than we’ve encountered elsewhere. Usually you see people traveling or chartering a boat. At this marina there were more people who were living the sailing lifestyle. We enjoyed a nice view, great showers, and laundry. Internet was very poor which seems to often be a theme at marinas.

The family is getting very familiar with the boat now and everyone has a role. Margaret and Theo are most involved when we depart and come in to port as there is more to do at those times. Margaret is primary crew but Theo is starting to take on small duties. Both Sheila and I skipper the boat. I’m glad we are both active captains since it can be fun but tiring to sail these distances.

After a couple nights, we set off for Patmos. Patmos is most famous as a religious centre with a monastery dedicated to St John the Baptist. He is believed to have authored the book of revelations from a cave where they’ve since built a church. We were able to enter the cave and see the ancient icons. In the thousand years since they built the church, there have been a few additions so there are about 4 stories of meandering rooms, stairways, and levels.

Up top of the hill overlooking the town is the monastery dedicated to St John. It was at one point a very wealthy place and has walls fortifying it to protect from raiders. We were able to tour the buildings, many churches inside, and the museum where you can see relics, icons, and books. The region is fascinating because it brings the life of the saint into closer perspective.

Through trial and error we found a great restaurant near the boat where Sheila & I enjoyed a fabulous meal from simple ingredients. We savoured the soup, salad, and main as we watched the changing light of the setting sun over the bay. This is a hard life indeed!

On to Mykonos.

KOS

Well the journey continues. We made it to Kos marina where we made arrangements to fix the windlass. It was going to take a few days to get the parts so we put in at a marina which is fairly close to downtown.

Kos is most famous for Hypocrites, its native son. We saw the tree where he gave his lectures & took the mandatory pictures. (The photo on the side is Sheila standing beside the tree)

It was good to take a break but were concerned because we were to meet Russ June 1 and it was at least 2 good days of sailing to get to him. He unfortunately had to cancel his trip so that relieved the pressure. All in all that was good because we didn’t get the part replaced until Thursday and were in Kos seven days all in.

Theo got into a nice routine of going on his own to the local café where he’d play on his ipad until we showed up…quite some time later. We’d join him for breakfast and coffee.

We had a few treks into Kos town itself, found a nice butcher near the marina, and rented a car one day so we could go a bit further afield. It is a bit tough when waiting on repairs as they have typically been promised “the next day” and then we are left waiting so we end up making plans later in the day.

On car rental day we decided to go to Therma beach where there is a natural spring that feeds a pool beside the sea. It’s kind of like going to Banff hotsprings except that there is no development around it. You have to walk down a gravel road, pass along the stone beach, and you will find the pool full of tourists. It was pretty cool being in a pool of water separated by the sea from rocks while the waves crashed over the crest. The cool factor was offset a bit by the sulfur smell (well OK you have to expect that), the many tourists there with you, and a pervert on the beach not that far away. After the plunge in the pool, a swim in the sea was required to rinse off sulfur and salt up.

We left Therma beach and then drove into the mountains where we had one of the best meals of the trip. There is a village people visit to see the sun set over Turkey so we went to what appeared to be among the nicest restaurants and had a table with a commanding view over the island. Better than the view was the food. Locally sourced and delectably prepared. I enjoyed baby goat (the kids were appalled) and Sheila had wild boar. 

Margaret’s chicken was also very nice and Theo had naturally aspirated chicken fingers. OK they pretty much looked like all other chicken fingers but I had to say something. Paired with local wine from Kos the meal combined with the view was spectacular. All agreed it was worth the drive up switchback roads to get there.

The next day Margaret suggested a side trip to go GoKarting. We visited a local somewhat rundown establishment. I can promise there is very little regulation on Go Karts on Kos. The carts had no regulators and went like stink. The tires were in terrible condition – completely bald. We steered through a combination of brakes and throttle. Applying the brakes you could get a bit of fishtail. Similarly, you could jam the throttle and wheel spin would fish tail the car. The track was really nothing but hairpins so we had lots of fun drifting and spinning. We completely spun out a few times and they don’t really help you so we just got out of the car and pushed back onto the track. I was pretty sure we’d end up in the hospital as part of the excursion but we managed to keep it together and had a lot of crazy fun. 

From Kos it is on to Leros.

Kevin 

Symi and Nysiros

Hi family and friends,

Symi was a pretty quick in and out. We did manage to eat some Symi shrimp but were a but underwhelmed. I think the problem was that we were at a pizzeria. We did eat a Capresse pizza which I can highly recommend. The Buffalo Mozerella on top was perfectly soft and creamy.

It is a pretty port with decent anchorage but we had no WIFI (oh no) on the boat so we couldn’t stay there indefinitely. There were ferries full of tourists coming from Rhodes so we did feel somewhat part of the attraction, “look at the pretty sailboats…that one is from Canada.” On the plus side it was nice to meet some Canadians stopped by to talk having seen the flag. “You need a flag,” says Eddie Izzard.

The village was built vertically so every walk was uphill. Sheila went for it but I held back and relaxed on the boat.

Spending only one night in Symi, we then made our way to Nysimos (Nisimos). Nisimos is famous for its dormant volcano which erupted to much fan fare 6000 years ago. There was a small burp in the 1800s but it has pretty much remained inactive. That said, inside the crater you can see boiling mud, steam vents, and a generally barren, Star Trek set appearance. There is a distinct sulphur smell as you wander the area. The place is huge. The crater, called Stephanos, is 4km in diameter. We walked down into the space and felt very small beside nature’s might. I remembered our friend Ali talking about volcano’s in Hawaii and I now understand her enthusiasm and awe.

Not far from the volcano is a small village perched on the upper reaches of the hills (mountains) surrounding the crater. We had a nice relaxing breakfast admiring the view and bus loads of tourists heading to the crater – we were warned would show up late morning. There is a natural sauna just outside the village. It is a cave. You walk in and feel exactly like you are in a humid sauna. Again – awesome.

Not to be outdone in castles, the island features (albeit in a low key way) a castle dating back over 2000 years with foundations of volcanic rock and walls that are upwards of 3M thick. The fortification has been well preserved and is distinctly different from other castles we've seen which are typically 5-700 years old.

The harbor here has been quiet and well protected from the wind. The wind has also been pretty low so sleep has been nice. We plan to head to Kos next however thundershowers may hold us up here another day.

On the boat front, the battery has worked well. We do, however, have an issue with the windlass (which releases and hauls up the anchor). It doesn’t seem to want to pull up the anchor chain beyond a certain point. Reading online it could be due to a twist in the chain but we’ll learn more tomorrow as we attempt to leave. Hopefully we aren’t raising the anchor through brute force as the winch is stuck as well. It will be a great workout1 Stay tuned for more.

Kevin