We have left Cyprus and are in Rhodes, Greece.
Let me bring you up to speed. Once our course was finished, we had only a couple things that were mandatory to repair before we left Cyprus: we had to get our dingy and we had a few electronics items to address. The dingy was repaired on budget and on schedule. The electronics were more difficult as the Raymarine rep is in high demand and limited quantity (one).
Once Raymarine visited our boat, first to hear the issue first hand, then to book a sea trial to experience it (the next day), then to diagnose a faulty part, he had to order the part. He agreed to repair it elsewhere on the island so we were able to start our journey albeit with a limited capability depth sounder (tells you how deep the water is which is important when your boat has a keel with a 2 meter draft (depth below the waterline).
We were leaving Cyprus from Latsi on the northwest part of the island. As this is a 12 hour sail, we decided to break it up into 2 parts of 4 hours and 8 hours. This would have been a great idea had it not been for the headwinds and then high gusty winds that were with us through our first anchorage in Psouri Bay. Psouri being greek for “crazy winds from the cliffs that will cause you to drag anchor and reset in pitch black at 11pm stressing out the neighbouring yacht.” OK not really. We learned all about the proper ratio of rode (anchor chain) to depth and the importance of basic math. This combined with a watch through the night ensured we kept safe at anchor while winds gusted to 25 knots.
The second leg of our journey was much more civilized. We had lots of swell (which translates to a bumpy ride even in a 13.75 meter boat) but made it generally in line within our expected time.
At Latsi, we couldn’t find the harbor master anywhere (who tells you where you can berth the boat) but a helpful Captain Zorbas (yes that is his name) got us to the right place where we squeezed between two yachts in the crowded little harbor.
In Latsi the kids fell in love with a splotchy fuzzy cat and we made friends with the owner of a local restaurant, Sea Fare, who shared with us deserts, pieces of fruit, and a jar of honey. The meals were delicious too, of course. The restaurant owner was a lovely woman who had lived in Long Island but returned to Cyprus after the tragic death of her 21 year old son who was in an accident while on vacation.
Leaving Latsi was a minor challenge. Raymarine was on time and repaired the depth sounder on time however we had a challenge with getting fuel. I had arranged delivery however the supplier wanted to deliver to our boat at the berth (very convenient) which was only allowed before 9am. We agreed this would happen the day of departure but it took a call from our friend Harry’s brother, Angelos, to ensure it happened on time. Angelos has an established charter boat business in Cyprus and is well known in the marinas there. Thank goodness Harry was doing the passage with us and didn’t hesitate to bring Angelos reputation to bear on our problem.
We had decided to make for Kastelorizo, a 24 hour sail, because there were high winds forecast and we thought doing a 36 hour trip to Rhodes may be a bit risky if conditions changed. Also, we hadn’t done a long passage like that before so we weren’t sure how everyone would feel. The trip to Kastelorizo, our first full overnight sail was uneventful. At landfall we were met by a local restaurant owner who was eager to sell us food while offering free electricity and water. He made it very clear that his 47 years experience made him an expert in greek yogurt and docking boats. We needed the electricity as we were having trouble with our batteries and weren’t sure what was happening but our boat was hesitant to start by times.
Although tired, we had coffee and breakfast, did our customs, port police, and harbor check ins (this was about a 3 hour elapsed process which I will explain one day) and then set about to see the local sites. A medieval castle overlooks a traditional harbor. The hike up the hill was a welcome relief from the confines of the boat. It was interesting to see how the traditional castle had been reinforce in places with hidden gun turrets that where used in the second world war.
We left Kastelorizo that evening for Rhodes. Very heavy winds were in the forecast and we wanted to be in Rhodes marina for a bit more comfort and things to do if we were going to be in one place for a few days.
That overnight sail this time was very eventful. We had winds, waves, rain, as well as thunder and lightening. It was a bit unnerving to watch the bolt lightening hit the seas as the storm passed. Having grown up near lakes the only thing we knew of lightening storms was that we shouldn’t be in them. There wasn’t much choice but to continue toward our destination. Another boat had left Kastelorizo for Rhodes about the same time and we followed its lights ahead of us for most of the trip. Following someone was a surprising comfort. Overall I think we did great. Margaret and Sheila shared watches with Harry and me. Everyone was safety conscious, maintained thorough logs, and handled the uncertainty very well. I must make a special call out to Margaret. Being in a small boat in a storm in the dark and keeping your head about you takes strength of character and internal fortitude. I’m proud of her family teamwork and contributions.
Rhodes Marina is all we wanted. It is close to the old city (30 min walk or 5 min cab), quiet, newly built with a slightly hip coffee shop, nice bathrooms with free showers (yes this matters A LOT), laundry and other services nearby.
We will be here a couple more days as we are replacing the faulty engine battery and I may get ambitious and replace the holding tank hose.
Rhodes will be worth a whole other blog post. It is an incredible island.